Najdmie

Men Long-Sleeved Jumpsuit

Reference garment: "Jozev - Belted Shirt Jumpsuit" (from yesstyle.com)

Instruction based on Donnanno "basic overall" (p241). Men shirt sleeve (p222). Basic collar block for shirt (p177).

Fabric: Woven. I use cotton twill.

Not recorded. Front placket, pockets, belt and buckle, elasticated pants hem.

I included ...

Tips: Things that I wish I knew earlier in Clo.

1. Shoulder length

Whenever I drafted from instruction that requires shoulder length measurement, I noticed that my shoulder-line seems shorter. Turned out that I've been measuring the shoulder length of Clo avatar wrongly.

For years I've been measuring the shoulder length while the avatar in A-pose. What I should be doing is to measure while the avatar in is attention pose, like in real world. The discrepancy is about 1.5 cm which is huge.

Shoulder length in A-pose = 13.5 c...

Women utility jacket basic toile

Stil a lot of sewing mistake.

Bonus: my projector setup for tracing pattern. I will never print pattern again.

Women Utility Jacket

Reference garment: Moose Knuckle Sainte Rose Jacket

Instruction based on Zachary et al "women drop shoulder coat".

Hood instruction from Muller&Sohn "detachable hood".

Fabric: Woven. I use polyester taffeta but change...

Men T-Shirt Toile

I know it is ugly buy you guys deserve the see the result. I made a lot of mistakes, like sewing the sleeve underarm seam outside. At least it is fitting. Probably a bit tight at the armpit.

I should sew knit using overlock machine, but I don't know how to operate it. Maybe next time.

You can download the pdf file for A0 printing here

2024-03-26 14:51:35 +0000 UTC View Post

Men T-Shirt

Instruction based on Muller&Sohn "Basic shirt block for normal size" (p49).

Fabric: Knit. I use cotton jersey. Ribbed knit for collar.

All steps recorded except topstitches and changing fabric color.

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Sketchfab 2024-03-25 00:58:27 +0000 UTC View Post

Basic block in real life

I got a lot of inquiry whether my pattern work in real life. So I decided to start testing the pattern in real life, at least the basic block.

I cashed out Patreon money to buy several mannequins and sewing supplies. I also got a sewing machine hand down from my mother. She even got a serger that I can use.

The pics show Bunka block that I sewed myself. Not too bad for a first timer right? But I still don't know how to sew the sleeve because the sleeve cap has ease that need basti...

Women Redingote

No reference to specific brand. The design is directly from the book. I later realize that a redingote is a frock coat, which I have done before.

Basic bodice: Bunka-style adult women sloper (Bunka textbook 1 p88).

Further instruction from Bunka redingote (Bunka textb...

Racing Jacket

Reference garment: This pic. I cannot find the product page. It is the casual version of the real racing jacket. The real racing jacket is more tight fitting.

I'm not a designer, so excuse the graphic design.

Bodice: ESMOD body block with dart (p36). In the vid...

Oversized Hoodie 2

No reference to specific brand. I know I have done a lot of hoodies, but I want to do hundreds more. I'm just obsess with any garment with a hood.

I reused the basic block from previous video (Knowles).

Further instruction based on Knowles "Pullover Sweatshirt with Hood, Drawstri...

T-Shirt Jersey

Design based on NFL Jersey.

Basic bodice and sleeve instruction loosely based on Knowles "drafting the sloper set" (p35). I simplified the instruction for less measurement and shaping.

All steps recorded. You just need to add graphic and topstitches.

Fabric: Knit. I use cotton rayon.

Below is the overview of the ba...

Bias-cut Slip Dress

Reference garment: None. Design is entirely from the Armstrong book "Slip Dress with Slinky Skirt" (p500).

All steps recorded. You just need to choose your fabric.

Basic bodice block: Armstrong basic dress foundation (p44), and basic torso foundation (p449). You also need to refer contour guideline (p189)

2024-02-22 13:21:38 +0000 UTC View Post

Sports Bra

No video this time because I myself do not know how to record the instruction. Lingerie pattern is way out of my comfort zone. It will be better if you just read the book instead. 

Design from Kristina_shin book. Unfortunately, the book only accommodates average US women size, so it does not work out of the box for Clo avatar who has small boobs. It also relies on tracing the "bra underwire". Since I don't have the unde...

Hooded Bomber Jacket

Reference garment: Loro Piana Kasai Bomber

Basic bodice block: Aldrich Flat Kimono Block (Chapter 2). Alternatively, you can use any jacket block you like. I choose the kimono block because it is easier to make the raglan sleeve from it. The raglan sleeve is this design is a two-piece raglan, with a seam in the middle, wh...

Hanfu

Design and instruction based on Duong book.

"unisex pants" (p16). The pants is optional because it is completely hidden, unless when wearing a short coat.

"long traditional shirt" (p50) 

"long coat" (p63)

I have to reduce the neck ease, else the garment tends to slip down.

All details recorded except fabric color and topstitches.

Fabric: Woven. I use default fabric but with cotton voile tex...

Patreon exclusive: Ski Pants

It has been a while since I made a Patreon only video. This garment is suggested by a fellow patron.

Reference garment: Salomon Force - Men’s Shell Pants

Basic block from Muller&Sohn "basic block jeans" (p31). Any basic pants block can be used but I use the jeans bloc...

Download link: Ski Pants v1.0

Commentary post link.

Draped Raglan Shirt

Reference garment: None. The design is from the book.

Bodice: Burgo women basic bodice with dart. I do not recommend making basic block using this instruction because the technique and measurement is a bit outdated in my opinion.

Sleeve: Burgo basic sleeve foundation

2024-01-19 08:23:36 +0000 UTC View Post

Trench Coat

Reference garment: Burberry trench coat

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Bodice: Injoo et al "men jacket foundation", followed by "Men's trench coat" instruction.

Sleeve: Injoo et al formal two-piece sleeve

Collar: Injoo et a...

Polo Sweater

*This is a rewrite because I accidentally deleted the original post.

Reference garment: Uniqlo Premium Lambswool Long Sleeve Polo Sweater

Bodice and sleeve: Cole minimal fit sloper followed by enlargement for sweater jacket. The minimal fit sloper is drafted without any ease added. The author's method is specific for knit fabr...

Rugby Shirt

Reference garment: Polo Ralph Lauren The Iconic Rugby Shirt

Bodice and sleeve: Myoungok Classic-fit Torso and Sleeve for knit (p404).

Collar: Myoungok two piece shirt collar with separate band (p86). I'm not sure whether the real garment has the band/sta...

Ruffle Collar Blouse

Reference garment: None, the design is entirely from the book.

Bodice: Donnanno vol 2, basic darted bodice block (p10), and basic raglan block (p34).

Further instruction base on Donnanno p52, "Raglan Sleeve Blouse with Ruffle COllar"

The instruction is furthe...

Welt pocket

I compiled three easy methods to make a welt pocket. The first one is shown in the video. The next two are so simple I don't need a video to explain it.

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1) "Cut and clone" method

Basically, clone the pocket outline.  Sew the upper clone 'flush' with the bodice fabric except the top part, which remain open. 

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2) "Cut and sew" method

Just "cut and sew" ...

Single-breasted Jacket

Reference garment: No reference to specific brand.

Instruction base on Jungclaus

Fabric: Woven.  I use wool for collar and sleeve, and default fabric for bodice. But I change all textures to cotton twill.

Not shown in video: Pocket and buttons. The project file includes all the garments put together to form a complete men suit. Some pieces like the collar and necktie are frozen to maintain shape. The are als...

Dress Shirt

Garment reference: No reference to specific brand.

Instruction based on Jungclaus shirt chapter. However, I modify some aspects especially the armhole shape.

Fabric: Woven. I use default fabric but change the texture to cotton poplin.

Not shown in video: Buttons, topstitch and some puckering along the seam. I also raise the final hem 4 cm.

2023-12-11 05:39:48 +0000 UTC View Post

Men Dress Pants

Reference garment: Giorgio Armani Men's Solid Wool Trousers. However, I did not include details like buttons. This is to simplify it because I plan to use it in my other garments later.

Instruction from  Jungclaus pants chapter.

Fabric: Woven. I use cotton twill.

Everything is shown in the videos except a...

Men Underpants

Garment reference: No reference to specific brand.

Instruction based on Jungclaus underpants chapter. One significant change is I make the waistband depth 4 cm instead of 2.5 cm as in original text.

Fabric: Knit. I use knit cotton rayon. You must use a stretchy fabric for this one. You also must manually stretch the fabric because the avatar does not wear the garment as real people do. The avatar 'wear' the garme...

Seamly basic blocks.

LINK.

I will start to share my basic blocks, drafted from various books. I made a lot of these but have been reluctant to share them because they have not been organized.

You can download from this link. Only a few have been uploaded, ...

Long Parka

Sorry that I'm behind schedule. So much going on right now.

Garment reference: This unknown parka from a show.

Bodice: Kershaw basic upper body sloper (p40) ** I have the 1st edition, 2nd edition may have different page no.

Sleeve: Kershaw basic sleeve sloper...

Classic Men Derby

I finally make my very first footwear. It is nothing fancy, but I'm very proud of this.

This is just a proof of concept. I have not optimized this shoe to be worn by any avatar. If you remove the last. the shoe will lose it shape unless if your freeze it.

Rather than the actual shoe patterns, I spend a huge amount of time researching and developing the last. I know that I can just find some finished last online, but this approach seems lacking. I'm not enjoying the finished produc...