Tapered Cargo Pants

Reference garment: Rick Owen Bauhaus Cargo Pants

Instruction modified from Onishenko "tapered cut pants" (p136)

We can start with any basic woven trouser blocks. All waist dart/pleats are removed because we are using elasticated waistband. Then taper and trim the hem as desired.

You can download the full scale SVG to this draft diagram from the attachment.

Real time raw recording of the rest of the process is available for paid subscriber.

Downloadable files

• The original pants basic block. In the shared folder, look for the folder "Baron - Onishenko - Basic Pants Sloper 250804"

• Style3D files (free for paid subscriber for a limited time).

• Clo/MD files (free for paid subscriber for a limited time).

###### Footnotes ######

#1. My actual calculation is

Height = (waist to ankle) – (waistband height) – (low waist adjustment)

Height = 102 cm – 4 cm – 0 cm = 98 cm

- Waist to ankle = measure from waist to ankle on avatar side.

- Waistband height = I usually use 3 cm to 5 cm waistband height. Some pants block has the waistband height built-in into the draft. For such block, you need to retract the waistline before adding the waistband.

- Most men's pants waistband don't sit exactly on the actual location of the waist (the narrowest level of abdomen on a slim person, above the hip bone), but about 4 to 6 cm below it. But I still don’t include this adjustment because the pants will naturally slide down a bit when worn, which help to add some crotch ease. The pants hem will extend down below the ankle, which can be trimmed easily. If you think the pants waistband looks to high up, or want the so called ‘low-waist’ design, subtract by 1 cm to 6 cm, then include the same adjustment when determining the crotch-level later. Omit this adjustment entirely if you determine the pants length/height by measuring the customer pants instead of “waist to ankle”.

#2. This amount roughly determine the hip ease.

#3. This amount determine the width of the hip section of front pattern. Is looks like that no hip ease is added to the front but actually the ease is offset by ‘shifting the sideseam’ toward the front because the larger buttock area deserve the larger chunk of hip circumference.

#4. This is the “front crotch extension”.

#5. This amount will extent the “back crotch extension” longer than the front.

#6 From the pics I seen, the pants is quite short so I trim the hem by 5 cm. You may want to use different amount, or none at all.

#7. This amount roughly determine how much “crutch ease” is inserted. Onishenko provides a range of value from 2.7 cm to 3.7 cm depending on size. I recommend to start with 3.2 cm then increase if the back looks to low, or decrease if the back looks to high. But note that the back should be slightly higher than the front when the pants is worn.