Wedge Style Hand Vise - Part 2

It definitely makes a difference from a presentation perspective - depending on the context, you can direct the viewers eye very effectively with a simple grained/brushed finish on a part. It catches the light and can be used to set off the symmetry of an assembly, perhaps contrast with the surrounding parts etc - its also a lot easier to achieve and maintain! Cheers :)

Clickspring

GDay Chris, TFS. you mentioned grain! I have noticed that when I file/sand the finish is better in a given direction as with wood, is this the case or am I just imagining it? G

Graeme Brumfitt

Hi Chris, Thanks for this Patreon series, I've just subscribed. I'm aspiring to get in to machining and you've been a primary influence for me. Quick question: Is there a reason you didn't use the technique for forming the outside radius on the pivot block in this video that you demonstrated in making the lamp adapter plate in your first video? Thanks!

Alex Rains

Protip: you can use a simple formula to determine approximately how far you need to feed in with the compound. .75(pitch)...at least for Unified National series threads, I imagine it's similar for ISO threads. Also, I like to feed in that last little bit with the cross slide, and then take two or three trash passes to clean up the threads.

Entropy91

Cheers Josh!

Clickspring

Just subscribved to your patreon recently, and I'm loving these extra videos! I'm a final year mechanical engineering student in NZ so I was stoked to see you using the tolerance tables haha. Keep up the good work mate!

Josh Sutcliffe

makes sense, thanks.

Thomas Gude

Hey Thomas, it is to allow long thin stock to pass through the body of the tool

Clickspring

Could you tell me what the 5mm hole in the threaded insert is for? Is it something to do with the interference fit?

Thomas Gude

+1 on this it would be very instructive

Thomas Gude

Gosh, this is so satisfying to watch :D Thank you Chris!

Arturo Gutierrez

When cutting at a touch under 30 degrees on my machine the finish is orders of magnitude (if it was quantifiable) better than when feeding straight in. My lathe has no markings past 55 degrees with the top slide parallel to the work so I also need to use another method to get it to a bit less than 30 degrees and for that, Chris' one looks great!

James Finniss

great as always Chris.

Paul Busby

Cheers Evan :)

Clickspring

Hey Mat, yes that was a happy coincidence! Re the thread measurement, a nut is just so simple as a go-no go gauge to determine whether close to the minor diameter, its hard to resist. The actual dimension is less important to me than the feel of the two parts going together. I wanted minimum slop, with a nice smooth feel :)

Clickspring

Yes, which is what I wrote above, Cheers Mat :)

Clickspring

Fantastic video as always. A couple questions. Did you plan on your shutter speed and end mill speed to make such a fun effect or was it a coincidence, and will you plan for that in the future? Why did you not use wires and a micrometer for measuring your thread? You seem so precise about other things then used a nut and feeling to get your thread pitch diameter correct.

Hey David, I might not have made myself clear in the video, but I wasn't suggesting that the angle needs to be set to a specific angle exactly, but rather that I couldn't trust the graduated markings to guarantee that I was setting an angle less than 30 degrees. Anything "just under" 30 degrees is fine, generally its called 29.5 degrees, but the actual figure is not important. Yes you can feed in directly with the cross slide, and yes you can use a figure greater than 30 degrees with the topslide, but I have observed a significant difference in the thread quality by doing so, and will always seek to avoid it by using the top slide to feed in at less than 30 degrees. Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Hey Matthew, probably the best advice is to get started as soon as possible with a lathe. You learn so much by doing it, and everything else just follows on. Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Heh, I wouldn't have a go at the narrator for using the term 'wiggler' I hear a lot of machinists using the same term. Great as always Chris, as a bit of an odd question, any advice for someone wanting to start out out machining even asa hobbyist?? Cheers Matt

Matthew Sykes

I hate to post a correction to a video you already corrected yourself multiple times, but....you didn't need to set the top slide so exactly. The thread form is created by the form of the tool, not the motion. You could feed the top slide in straight if you wanted to, but it would be harder to cut because it would be cutting on both sides. If you fed it in at exactly the thread angle, it would cut on exactly one side and the other might be rough. So you set it at just under the thread angle so you cut mostly on one side and enough on the other to clean it up with the tool's form.

David Rysdam

Fantastic as always. Wiggler just sounds right

evan

Thank you PJ!

Clickspring

Chocked full again plus the great camera work and editing...most excellent! Nice grind on the single point too! Thanks for the gift of the plans and all your work in presentation, Chris. Squeaks and Giggles! ~¿@ ~PJ

PJ

Thank you very much Johnno! Yes it crossed my mind too - I put the prototype through a bit of punishment and decided that you'd have to be pretty determined to destroy the tool to break the press fit that way. I found that the jaw ends were starting to distort before the bond showed any sign of failing, and I was really cranking hard on the handle. If a user was to do this, they'd already be well on their way to hurting the tool at the jaw interface. If in doubt though, a spot of loctite would not do any harm. Or you could really get serious, and turn it as one piece! Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Terrific to hear that Grant :)

Clickspring

Hi Chris. As usual your video is orders of magnitude above anyone else. I did wonder if you locktited the jaw holder onto the shaft as the action of the cone would force the jaws forward.

Johnno Dee

Love the shop tool builds as much as the clock itself.

Grant Johnson

Sure thing james, it would be a good excuse for a spare parts video :) It's not the fastest method, but at least it gives confidence that the angle is exact.

Clickspring

If you get some time mate would you mind giving me a little more detail on how you set the <30 degree angle on the top slide with the dial indicator? i generally do it with a protractor and reference the face of the chuck but it is really fiddly business, your way looked much easier

James Finniss

Thanks very much james :)

Clickspring

Cheers Scott!

Clickspring

Excellent as always, thanks Chris!

James Finniss

I love the little details in this episode: the machinists handbook, single point threading, tool grinding, etc. Good stuff!

SCOTT SWAALEY

Aaah, there they are right in front of me! Awesome thanks again Chris!!

John Creasey

Hey John, the plans for each episode are at the top of each post, just underneath the main image of the video. I mentioned the require materials in the first video, but you're right, a materials list would be clearer. I'll get onto it when I get home from work today. Cheers mate :)

Clickspring

Hi Chris, am I missing something? The drawings don't seem to have the dimensions for the flat parts. Just the handle and the cone part. Also is there a list of materials somewhere?

John Creasey

Thanks very much Scott, terrific to have you on board mate :)

Clickspring

Once again you amaze me with these videos. Keep up the great work.

Scott Clausen