![[Full Video] - Wedge Style Hand Vise - Part 4](https://img5.creatorsok.com/storage/5/xy/jg/7047b2-019e7bd0-bb7e-7412-bacf-9531a3606ef0.jpg)
[Full Video] - Wedge Style Hand Vise - Part 4
Added 2016-07-19 02:57:02 +0000 UTCThe latest installment of the Hand Vise project - Enjoy!
-------------- Video Notes: ---------------
Tools & Products:
"Solidworks 2013 Bible": http://amzn.to/2FObS1D
"Machinery's handbook": http://amzn.to/2pi7XE5
Sherline Lathe: http://amzn.to/2pnXM19
Sherline WW collets: http://amzn.to/2FYZ7F8
Heavy Duty Arbor Press: http://amzn.to/2G4gog7
Interapid Dial Test Indicator: http://amzn.to/2FPInwH
Super Pike Saw Blades Size 4/0 pkg of 144: http://amzn.to/2tYjKMA
Dykem 80300 Steel Blue Layout Fluid, Brush-in-Cap (4oz): http://amzn.to/2HGPaJJ
Kaowool 24" X 12" X 1" 2400 F Ceramic Fiber Insulation: http://amzn.to/2pfsM3d
Comments
so no chance of the game of thrones opening sequence then ......
Anthony Gage
2017-01-01 17:50:42 +0000 UTCHa ha! Might need a decade or two to work my way up to that! Cheers mate :)
Clickspring
2016-12-24 20:30:29 +0000 UTCIdea for a project for you mate, Harrisons H4.....
Anthony Gage
2016-12-24 20:19:24 +0000 UTCHey Mehdi, it can certainly make a small improvement, but I still think acceptance of the limitations is the best way to approach the issue. I would just move on and start making chips :) The truth is that every lathe, from the finest Hardinge down to our frail little Siegs, all of them have limitations. Sooner or later you bump up against those limitations, and have to adjust your work process to accommodate them. Its worth remembering that some of the most gorgeous, and spectacular work ever seen on planet earth has been completed by craftsmen with not much more than a bow, string and 2 pivots. The vast majority of pre 20th century watchwork (A L Breguet for example) was done on rudimentary hand turns - nowhere near as accurate as even our little Siegs.
Clickspring
2016-11-15 20:01:12 +0000 UTCHi Chris, I believe that If I make the shape of gibs from diamond to parallelogram by increasing the length of two faces in parallel to each other from 6 mm 6.5mm , my Sieg lathe could be robust somewhat .It really take my time to adjust it each week and I have to do something to make it useable .Please let me know your thought .
Mehdi Illipour
2016-11-15 15:51:27 +0000 UTCHi Chris, thank you for your comment .
Mehdi Illipour
2016-09-24 13:15:19 +0000 UTCCheers mate, appreciate your support!
Clickspring
2016-09-18 19:05:01 +0000 UTCHey Mehdi, yes its basically the nature of the machines. They are well known to be lacking in rigidity, and the tailstock on mine is particularly weak. Many people go to considerable lengths to improve them, but for the most part I have found that the solution is to accept the machines for what they are. They are a cheap hobby grade machine, but you can still do outstanding work on them if you are careful and work within their limitations.
Clickspring
2016-09-18 19:04:39 +0000 UTCHi Chris, I have Sieg mini lathe and I have many problem on my command for its adjusting . It is not solid and robust . is it nature of the machine or I can come with a solution on that problem . Any book or something that can help me .Cheers ,
Mehdi Illipour
2016-09-18 17:25:54 +0000 UTCHey Pedro, I will be starting on part 5 this weekend, so it should be out in a few weeks. Cheers mate :)
Clickspring
2016-09-12 19:27:38 +0000 UTCamazing build as all of your work, you have a fan (at least) in the other side of the world dude (the sunny spain ;O) will the 5th part be available soon? You know your videos have some sort of addictive property and make all of us think of buying machines ... and making clocks! 'Muchas gracias' for the great job you do!
Pedro González
2016-09-12 15:45:14 +0000 UTCTry Onshape too
Jess Neal
2016-08-11 22:53:09 +0000 UTCThanks guys!
Brendan Gill
2016-07-30 16:48:53 +0000 UTCI use both and for the hobbyist fusion is great, it does lack some features that I love about solidworks, however that being said fusion actually does a better job at adding threads to parts.
Robert
2016-07-30 02:40:13 +0000 UTCHey Brendan, I use Solidworks, but recommend you check out Fusion360 - same parametric modelling capabilities, free for home use.
Clickspring
2016-07-27 10:24:37 +0000 UTCwhich software do you use to do your 3D models? I am looking for an alternitive as i cant afford Rhino3D
Brendan Gill
2016-07-27 07:17:58 +0000 UTCTerrific Colin!
Clickspring
2016-07-25 19:49:01 +0000 UTCI made a little gadget to move the camera around the workpiece
Clickspring
2016-07-25 19:48:29 +0000 UTCThanks for posting. Just tracking down the Stock needed to make one of these
Colin Dick
2016-07-25 18:24:30 +0000 UTCHow'd you do that shot at 5:23?
baker98270
2016-07-25 15:56:33 +0000 UTCThanks anyway i will definitely try and model them my self, learning solidworks when i was 10 was definitely a good idea. My dad has me modeling all of the parts for the mill now. your videos have caused me to want to get a lathe now! I actually need to turn some pulleys for my belt sander i designed.
Easton Bednarek
2016-07-23 04:13:51 +0000 UTCHey Easton, at this stage no, although its not a lot of work for you to model directly from the plans yourself :)
Clickspring
2016-07-23 04:10:06 +0000 UTCHi Chris, I love watching your videos. I'm considering making the vise but was wondering if you would release the solidworks part files? This would be a great first project for my almost finished cnc converted pm-25 mini mill. Thanks for the videos!
Easton Bednarek
2016-07-23 03:49:38 +0000 UTCCheers Al :)
Clickspring
2016-07-20 22:06:08 +0000 UTCNice work once again. I wouldn't have thought to try the scroll saw on tool steel! I will have to track down some of those blades. Thanks for the tip.
Al McKague
2016-07-20 21:58:00 +0000 UTCYes Blackwoods are my "go to" supplier for all things Sutton, as well as drill rod/silver steel, and a lot of other sundry stuff - terrific to deal with
Clickspring
2016-07-20 02:43:21 +0000 UTCThanks very much for the reference, I've just ordered a bunch of stones and files from them.
Damien Miller
2016-07-20 02:38:49 +0000 UTC(I should add the caveat that I've not bought any reamers ... yet)
Damien Miller
2016-07-20 02:35:04 +0000 UTCBlackwoods stock Sutton Tools metric chucking reamers (though not in fractional sizes) and are very easy for hobbyists to deal with. <a href="https://www.blackwoods.com.au/search/reamers-chucking-metric/307119912" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.blackwoods.com.au/search/reamers-chucking-metric/307119912</a>
Damien Miller
2016-07-20 02:33:14 +0000 UTCYes love Dormer and the local brand Sutton - I live in hope that Sutton will one day send me a care package packed with HSS end mill goodness... Ah well a bloke can dream :)
Clickspring
2016-07-20 02:31:40 +0000 UTCI agree with the stones. Where I work those are the ones we use.
Samuel Irons
2016-07-20 02:30:31 +0000 UTCIt would be interesting to see others do a build along with the next projects.
Samuel Irons
2016-07-20 02:27:48 +0000 UTCHi Chris, great video yet again. That drill link is gold, Dormer are the best drills. M A Ford are great too but mate do they cost some coin. Good for countersinks and spot drills but.
Andrew Robb
2016-07-20 01:07:49 +0000 UTCbeautiful work
kevin todd
2016-07-20 00:49:20 +0000 UTCThanks very much Jason :)
Clickspring
2016-07-20 00:38:37 +0000 UTCAwesome Chris! Your craftsmanship is stunning.
Jason Hughes
2016-07-20 00:00:46 +0000 UTCThank you PJ, words fail to me in expressing my gratitude for your encouragement :)
Clickspring
2016-07-19 20:14:18 +0000 UTCEziweld 801. Its a typical Zinc Chloride based flux so any local equivalent will do the same thing. Cheers mate :)
Clickspring
2016-07-19 20:11:27 +0000 UTCHa ha! Yes I am definitely a bit bleary eyed at the moment! The next long term YT project is well into development. I have the main project and also a related project that will become the next Patron Series project. I hope to be able to synchronise them so that they will run in parallel at the same time. I'm going to keep the details under my hat for a little bit longer, because revealing detail on either one would reveal the other, but I can say that I am incredibly excited about both projects. Patrons will be the first to hear all of the details.
Clickspring
2016-07-19 20:07:24 +0000 UTCThank You for all the links below and the patrons asking great questions. Particularly found the Artco site a Bonus, got lots of stuff I've been looking for. Wish they had an india/Arkansas stone assortments though. I have a couple of sets in SiC but would like some finer ones. Also thanks for the Flux tip as John Creasey mentions below, will give it a try. Grins about the static in the overlay! Thanks for all the fun and learning...and your videos still rock. ~PJ
PJ
2016-07-19 16:31:21 +0000 UTCGreat tip for removing blue oxide with flux. What kind of flux did you use?
John Creasey
2016-07-19 12:13:43 +0000 UTCHi, Chris! Great video as always! Do you have time for sleeping? In a comment above here you mentioned a project after the clock - have you already decided what is next and willing to share? Catch you later :)
Ørjan Fredheim
2016-07-19 11:56:07 +0000 UTCHey Nils, its a fascinating little trick actually! The wiggler consists of a chucking piece gently clasping a ball with a rod and point. The natural state of the tool when chucked in the spindle is to be off the spindle center, and sticking out at an angle. But by holding an object (stick, pencil, wrench etc) firmly against the rotating rod as it rotates at a modest rpm (1000 rpm), it is possible to knock the end point precisely onto the spindle axis. It works on exactly the same principle as the lathe bump centering tool - <a href="http://www.clickspringprojects.com/bump-lathe-centering-tool.html" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.clickspringprojects.com/bump-lathe-centering-tool.html</a> The result is that a wildly eccentric tool suddenly becomes a precision reference of the mill/drill spindle. You can now drive it over the workpiece using the XY table and then lower it over your center pop, edge, whatever, to accurately position your spindle.
Clickspring
2016-07-19 10:13:16 +0000 UTCHey Lachlan, yes I tend to use Imperial sized reamers simply because as you say they tend to be the easiest to source. There are also many suppliers who still stock imperial rod stock, so it is quite common for me to mix units across a project to make use of the imperial stock as the mating diameter. You won't find a true fractional drill bit set easy to source, but you don't need them. Just get a set of these: <a href="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/drill-bit-sets/0511112/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/drill-bit-sets/0511112/</a> a set of these: <a href="http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/drill-bit-sets/0511128/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/drill-bit-sets/0511128/</a> and while you're shopping a set of these: <a href="http://www.suttontools.com/products/spotting-drills-120-d176/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.suttontools.com/products/spotting-drills-120-d176/</a> and you're covered for 99.9% of your model engineering needs. You will buy the odd larger bit when the project requires it, but I've found it to be rare. Drill undersized as per the print using the nearest metric equivalent, and ream as required. Twist drills are sufficiently innacurate that the metric/imperial difference is irrelevant, and the reamer can easily cope with a slightly greater load if required. As an aside: a set of center drills for making center holes for turning between centers is essential, but that set can also cover you for spotting too if you want - the tip of a center drill is 120 degrees which is the correct geometry for spotting a 118 degree twist drill. Just limit the cut to the very tip, not the full depth - Stefan Gotteswinter did a great video on this recently which was right on the money: <a href="https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot8wPGQW3JI" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ot8wPGQW3JI</a>
Clickspring
2016-07-19 10:05:53 +0000 UTCFantastic Chris, thank you. Could I ask how the wiggler helps you find center?
Nils Rohwer
2016-07-19 09:58:59 +0000 UTCHa ha! Just giving your ears a break, normal programming shall return in due course! Cheers Mark :)
Clickspring
2016-07-19 09:32:20 +0000 UTCGreat stuff as always. I know you offer your plans in both metric and imperial, but what do you use for reaming and from where? Imperial chucking reamers seem relatively available from the state (I'm from Melbourne), however metric seems much less common. Is it worth just using imperial and getting my hands in a fractional drill set for holes requiring tolerance? Keep it up!
Lachlan Lane
2016-07-19 09:08:15 +0000 UTCi miss the radio tuning sound you used to use for the x-ray overlays. this static sound isn't as fun.
Everfalling
2016-07-19 08:59:46 +0000 UTCYes you can d/l the plans associated with each episode from each Patreon post. The plans are the blue links below the main video. Any problems downloading, let me know :)
Clickspring
2016-07-19 08:48:45 +0000 UTCThanks Paul :)
Clickspring
2016-07-19 08:46:35 +0000 UTCCheers Roland!
Clickspring
2016-07-19 08:46:23 +0000 UTCanother great video Chris. looking forward to the final one.
Paul Busby
2016-07-19 08:26:26 +0000 UTCBonjour et un Grand Merci !! C'est un plaisir de Vous voir !!! Cordialement RG
Roland Guth
2016-07-19 07:38:06 +0000 UTCAnother superb and informative video. Thanks also for the url references you left in other comment replies. Looking forward to the last video and the completed piece. Will there be a plan for the piece available later?
Scott Clausen
2016-07-19 06:59:07 +0000 UTCThanks Nick, its a small space so i don't have any excuse!!
Clickspring
2016-07-19 06:09:43 +0000 UTCCertainly Damien - I get all of my stones from Artco Tools in the US: Arkansas Stones: <a href="http://www.artcotools.com/norton-arkansas-stones/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.artcotools.com/norton-arkansas-stones/</a> India Stones: <a href="http://www.artcotools.com/norton-india-stones/" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.artcotools.com/norton-india-stones/</a> Not cheap, but they are good quality.
Clickspring
2016-07-19 06:03:49 +0000 UTCNicely done Chris! I love how clean your shop is. Also I didn't comment on youtube but that piece of burl is gorgeous! It's really cool to see the clock coming together!
Nick Pelissier
2016-07-19 06:02:12 +0000 UTCThank you Tom!!
Clickspring
2016-07-19 05:00:27 +0000 UTCCould I ask where you bought your small oilstone? I've not been able to find anything that size at Blackwoods...
Damien Miller
2016-07-19 04:57:52 +0000 UTCMore remarkable results using simple tools...and a lot of not-so-simple-to-develop skills!
Tom Colson
2016-07-19 04:52:42 +0000 UTCAwesome to hear that Josh, get onto it!! <a href="http://www.clickspringprojects.com/blog/which-lathe-should-i-buy" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.clickspringprojects.com/blog/which-lathe-should-i-buy</a>
Clickspring
2016-07-19 04:39:14 +0000 UTCSeeing these videos makes me want to get a lathe and mill and just make tools for the hell of it.
John
2016-07-19 04:37:08 +0000 UTCI genuinely wish I could wave a magic wand and give you all one!
Clickspring
2016-07-19 04:27:16 +0000 UTCHey Cameron, here is an online source: <a href="http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/tempering-colors-steel-d_1530.html" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">http://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/tempering-colors-steel-d_1530.html</a> The first chart is the incandescent colors (for when you are heating prior to quench), and the second one is the chart showing the oxide color/temperature correlation, for when you are heating to temper. The colors are a little off becuase its computer screen colors, but it is a decent starting point. I also highly recommend you pick up this little book: <a href="https://www.amazon.com/Hardening-Tempering-Treatment-Workshop-Practice/dp/0852428375?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0" rel="nofollow noopener" target="_blank">https://www.amazon.com/Hardening-Tempering-Treatment-Workshop-Practice/dp/0852428375?ie=UTF8&*Version*=1&*entries*=0</a> Its a great little reference book, and has virtually all you need to know on the subject of home shop heat treating, including a chart inside with the color/temperature correlation that is very well matched to true colors, as opposed to the above. Cheers mate :)
Clickspring
2016-07-19 04:26:11 +0000 UTCThanks Matthew, I was totally thrilled when I found that bit of wood! I also picked up a piece of similar sized Rib Fruited Mallee which is equally stunning, although a lot lighter so not suited to this project - I have high hopes that it will suit the next project to follow the clock tho...
Clickspring
2016-07-19 04:19:03 +0000 UTCCheers Jeff!!
Clickspring
2016-07-19 04:10:43 +0000 UTCHay Jeff, I also did not realise and have been playing with mine cutting different materials. Chris, Thanks for the blade suggestions.
Matthew Dormer
2016-07-19 03:21:41 +0000 UTCStunning work as always, I never realized the metal cutting capabilities of scroll saws!
Jeff, Practical Renaissance
2016-07-19 03:20:11 +0000 UTCGreat work Chris, I’m enjoying this series as much as the clock. I must compliment you on the Piece of Burl that you used for the base of the clock. Beautiful.
Matthew Dormer
2016-07-19 03:20:09 +0000 UTCYou could "randomly" pick me, ya know... if you wanted... just sayin' Really, though, what was/is your resource for telling how hot metal got by the color of its oxide layer? Is there a chart/website/table that you could reference for this? Or is it just something that you (or someone who taught you) learned with experience?
Cameron Gunter
2016-07-19 03:19:49 +0000 UTCI can't wait to win! :)
Joel
2016-07-19 03:19:17 +0000 UTC
